Kathmandu Durbar Square

A while back, when James and Emily were still here, I took some photos of the square.  I have taken quite a few in the last two and a half years – we used it as the backdrop for a play we put on, we visited it in our first week here (the Kathmandu Walkabout … Continue reading

Hamro Nepal: Kirtipur

Kirtipur, a town straddling a low ridge to the south of the main conurbation of Kathmandu, has lodged itself in my mental map of the valley for three reasons.  Firstly, the legend: the town held out for so long and so doggedly against the onslaught of the conquering King Prithvi Narayan Shah that once he … Continue reading

Annapurna Base Camp: A Trek Without the Twins

For the first time since coming to Nepal, with the exception of work trips, I travelled for a week away from the the twins, and also away from Bine.  (When I came back Bine handed me the baton: she is now doing the same trek, and I am taking care of James and Emily on … Continue reading

Hamro Nepal: Thawang

The Maoist Heartland: a woman walks in front of an anti-election mural in Thawang The road to Thawang is long and hard.  The tarmac sputters out as you enter Rukum district, itself a day’s drive from the nearest airport.  From the Martyr Memorial Tourism Entrance Gate onwards the road is unpaved, less a road, more … Continue reading

Hamro Nepal: Janakpur

What do I want to tell you about my trip to the south of Nepal last week?  Where to begin?  The Janaki Mandir…? Or impressions, perhaps?  Those non-memories that remain in the mind like bright lights burned on the retina.  You see them after your eyes close.  Hot and humid.  My skin felt sticky and … Continue reading